The Modern Bark | Dog Training Tips

Depending on your puppy’s breed, teething will begin somewhere between 13 and 16 weeks, and the small, sharp milk teeth will begin to be pushed out by the larger adult teeth. With this developmental stage comes a new set of challenges. This is the puppy equivalent to the “terrible twos” -staircase banisters, window sills, house plants, leashes, table and chair legs, shoes and socks, all are fair game to the teething puppy that does not yet know its boundaries. If she can get her mouth around it, it’s going to be fun to destroy!

Keep in mind, as the puppy begins to teeth, the jaw is growing rapidly; the gums are inflamed from cutting new teeth, and your puppy is, in general, feeling pretty miserable. This is not a good time to do any serious training outside of basic puppy manners. He or she is going to be crabby, easily distracted and not a good candidate for learning new tricks. You will both be frustrated with any advanced training in this phase of your puppy’s development.

To help ease his pain and yours, here are some tips and tools of the trade that we and other breeders have used with success to channel a puppy’s need to chew towards appropriate objects. Included are some of the best teething toys for puppies of all breeds as well as chew deterrents. Additionally, the training techniques discussed will help him learn some important boundaries in his relationship with his new family members.

1) “Leave It!” - It’s a good idea to begin to teach your puppy “Leave It!” as soon as you bring him home – or read this article. A good “Leave It” will prevent you from getting into a tug of war over an object that you value, leaving it in worse condition than when you first discovered it in puppy’s mouth.

“Leave It!” is taught by playing tug with your puppy with a preferred toy. When you want the puppy to let go of the toy, you say “Leave It,” holding the toy with one hand, and producing a treat in the other hand. The puppy will release the toy for the treat, and you reward the puppy with the treat, saying, “Good Leave It!” Eventually, you will replace the treat with another favored toy, alternating between a reward of favored toy or treat until the puppy has a firm grasp of the phrase “Leave It.”

2) Trade Up– Whenever you find your puppy chewing on something inappropriate, correct him with a “no.” Then trade up by giving him a toy that you know he likes. Once he starts chewing on the correct toy, praise him.

Always try to find a way for your puppy to be “right” and deserving of praise at the end of any training session or correction. In times when a training session has not resulted in a breakthrough, end the session with a command that the puppy knows well, so that it can be ended with a “good dog,” praise and a treat.

3) Grannick’s Bitter Apple Spray– Grannick’s Bitter Apple Spray has prevented my dogs from chewing on leads, furniture and themselves. The taste is unpleasant, and puppies generally look for something else to chew on. Spray down any hard surfaces that your puppy may be inclined to chew on: window sills, stair railings, furniture legs etc… Color test any fabric before you spray Grannicks on large areas of cloth.

4) Chilly Bone– MultiPet makes a very durable toy called the Chilly Bone. This toy lasted us through 3 generations of teething puppies, before it disappeared in the backyard. It may still be out there in reasonably good condition.

The Chilly Bone is covered with a tough canvas outer and filled with a non-toxic gel that will freeze quickly in the freezer. This toy numbs the sore gums and cools the tendency towards feverishness. It’s great for the adult dogs too on hot summer days, helping to lower body temperature after exercise in the heat of the day. Rinse with plain soap and water and freeze while still damp once it has thawed.

5) Soft Mouth Training– I like to be able to put my hands in my dog’s mouth whenever I need to give her a pill or remove something from the back of her throat that I don’t want her to swallow. Teaching a soft mouth and eliminating biting at an early stage in the puppies development is critical. A cute nip or bite from a puppy can become a dangerous liability in a grown dog.

Teaching a soft mouth can be done by lying on the floor with the puppy and playing a little tug. Remove the toy and gently play with the lower jaw. It’s okay to let him gently “mouth” your hand, but if he bites down hard make a sharp, high pitched “ouch.” Then clamp is mouth shut gently but firmly for 2-3 seconds. If he bites again, say “no” and clamp the mouth again for 2-3 seconds.

This action mimics his mother’s method of correction. When she sees behavior she does not like, she will snap the puppy’s mouth closed with bites in quick succession. You can use this technique to stop nipping and barking as well. Snapping their mouths shut has been equated to sticking the puppy’s head in the toilet, so don’t go overboard, or hold their mouths shut for more than 2-3 seconds.

6) Rope Toys– Rope toys are some of the best teething toys as they are inexpensive, easy to clean, versatile and last a long time. Rope toys are great for teaching fetch, tug or for solitary chewing activities. They also promote dental health by helping to clean teeth and strengthen gums. Rinse the toys with plain soap and water every few days, and freeze them while still wet for extra soothing chewing.

7) Kong Toys– The Kong Company makes a variety of tough toys that are great for all levels of chewers. The original Kong product line includes hard rubber toys in which treats may be hidden. Puppies will work these toys for hours trying to dig the treats out of them.

The Kong Wubba toy line, which resembles an octopus, is great for fetch and tug games. These colorful and tough toys will last beyond a year in most multi dog households. Wubbas come in a variety of sizes from Puppy up to Mega Wubba. Our boy Boomer keeps a large Wubba in his mouth about 30% of the day!

8) Chilled Carrots– A cold carrot soothes the gums, tastes great and is rich in Omega 6 fatty acids, Vitamins A and K and Potassium. Puppies love chewing on carrots and watching them disintegrate. As carrots are also high in fiber, limit the puppy to one carrot per day to avoid stomach upsets.

9) Crate Training– I recommend crate training for protecting the household when you are asleep or away and also to aid in potty training. Dogs are den animals and love small dark spaces to call their own. In the wild, mothers dig underground dens for a safe haven to whelp and raise their litters. Puppies will stay under ground until they begin to walk steadily enough to climb out of the den, usually around 3 to 4 weeks old.

If your puppy has not been crated before, you can expect a night or two of lamentation at having his activities restricted. Don’t feel too bad about it; he should cry himself to sleep within 45 minutes of being crated, and typically they adjust to being crated at bedtime after 2 nights.

Feeding your puppy in the crate will help him to appreciate his new space. Also, toss in a treat whenever you want him to get in the crate; eventually he will go to the crate on his own when he is ready for a nap or just to relax. Be sure the puppy has access to clean water while he is in his crate.

10) The Naughty Paws Puppy Teething Survival Kit– Wags-n-Whiskers-Gifts and Gift Baskets makes a gift basket for training and entertaining teething puppies. Consider this investing in this gift basket in preparation for the inevitable terrible teething phase.

In addition to healthy training treats, it includes Grannicks Bitter Apple, the Chilly Bone, a rope toy, a training clicker complete with a training guide, a dental cleaning kit, a poop bag dispenser with refills, 4 rawhide bones, a Skinneeez plush stuffing free toy, a 160 oz food or water bowl and a puppy size Kong Wubba.

Remember that consistency is the key to all successful puppy training – the teething phase won’t last forever, but the good habits you instill in him or her now will last a lifetime!

Mighty dogs to the rescue. Once again, our canine companions are assisting in providing invaluable medical advances to mankind. Previous studies have shown that dogs can detect early stages of cancer as well as super bug infections in patients with hospital acquired infections. Now comes another gift from Man's Best Friend!

Researchers at the University of Georgia have discovered that a virus commonly found in dogs, the parainfluenza virus (PIV5), could serve as the foundation for the next great breakthrough in human vaccine development. PIV5, which does not cause disease in humans, contributes to upper respiratory infections in dogs, and therefore is targeted in many canine vaccines. As the virus does not affect humans, researchers turned their eyes towards it as a potential delivery mechanism for human vaccines against diseases that have previously alluded development.

Science has successfully used viruses to create vaccines in the past, although for some perilous pathogens it has been difficult develop an effective vaccine. Such pathogens include most notably HIV, malaria and tuberculosis. The researchers at UGA have found that by placing antigens from other viruses or parasites inside PIV5, it effectively becomes a delivery vehicle that exposes the human immune system to specific pathogens, which in turn allows our immune systems to create the antibodies that protect against future infection.

Said Biao He, Professor of Infectious Disease at UGA's College of Veterinary Medicine and lead researcher, "We can use this virus as a vector for all kinds of pathogens that are difficult to vaccinate against. We have developed a very strong H5N1 flu vaccine with this technique, but we are also working on vaccines for HIV, tuberculosis and malaria."

This technique ensures full exposure to the vaccine, and is much safer, as it does not require the use of attenuated, or weakened, pathogens. Using this approach, an HIV vaccine delivered by PIV5 would contain only those parts of the HIV virus necessary to create immunity, making it impossible to contract the disease from the vaccine.

It is estimated that 34 million people worldwide are infected with the HIV virus, with 3.3 million of them under the age of 15. The leading cause of death for people living with HIV is tuberculosis. These exciting findings bring new hope to areas of the world lacking the educational resources to help combat the spread of these diseases.

To learn more about the study click here to visit Science Daily.com's article.

The average dog can learn as many as 150 words, a fairly substantial vocabulary beyond sit, stay and come. Research with several border collies has brought those vocabulary numbers up beyond 400 words, and a border collie named Chaser has learned the names of 1022 objects, which he can differentiate and fetch on command. There appears to be no upper limit in Chaser's vocabulary lessons, as he continues to add words to his lexicon.

In the wake of such impressive results, researchers Emile van der Zee, Helen Zulch and Daniel Mills sought to determine the presence of a key feature of human word comprehension in canine learning. In the research article, Word Generalization by a Dog (Canis familiaris): Is Shape Important?, the researchers sought to determine if shape bias existed in dogs as it does in humans.

Experiments with human 2 year olds, have shown a "shape bias" exists in the learning of new words. Simply put, once the child associates a name with an object, it then generalizes the shape of that object to other objects with the same shape. For example, a child taught the word ball, when presented with a group of new objects, will seek other spherical shapes regardless of their size and texture. Children associate ball with round; do dogs learn the same way?

Using a 5 year old border collie named Gable, the researchers used random words, such as DAX or GNARK to create a word association with an object. Once the word-object association was made, researchers began to replace the familiar object with new object choices. When presented with new objects to retrieve, Gable sought objects that were similar in size to the original object, without regard to the shape of the object. As Gable became more familiar with the word-object mapping, he replaced the size preference with an association of similar texture of the object. As Gable better understood the word-object relationship, he relied on how the object felt in his mouth to determine the best choice for retrieval.

I am reminded of a scene in the film, Best In Show, when the toy, Busy Bee, goes missing. The pet shop owner offers up a toy similar in size and shape to the panicked dog owner. She rejects the new toy as it is obviously not a bee, but is instead a fish. The pet shop owner tries to convince her to purchase the toy stating, "I think the dog is responding to the shape and strips on the toy." Yes and no. The dog would respond to the similar size and plush material, but not the stripes or shape of the toy.

As a practical application of the research, those of you needing to replace a treasured toy should seek toys of similar size, texture and firmness. Ultimately, the dog is responding to how the toy feels in his mouth.

How this research applies to dog training is an interesting question. Vision is the primary sense of humans. Therefore it makes sense that we would rely on object shape in determining associations. Scent is the primary sense of dogs, hearing is secondary and sight tertiary; scent and sound were not presented as differentiating factors for Gable.

In real world dog training, scent and sound are both factors in our dog's learning. The smell and sound of treats and objects are likely to be confounding factors for our dogs, unnoticed by humans in our sight driven world. If you find yourself experiencing a brick wall in your training, if your dog seems to be stubbornly missing the point, consider that he may be responding to another aspect of the situation. He may have made an association that seems correct to him based on scent or sound. When you seem not to be on the same page, take a broader view of the situation, and perhaps change objects or locations.

Click here to review the research article Word Generalization by a Dog (Canis familiaris): Is Shape Important? The online article at PLOS One also includes videos of Gable's training sessions. Enjoy!

Based on Banfield hospital's roster of 2.5 million patients, Bella (of Twilight fame) tops the 2012 list for Dog names, and comes in second for Cats. Bella was last year's most popular name for both Cats and Dogs. But look out 2013 - Both Katniss (Hunger Games) and Honey Boo Boo (Spoiled Brat Reality Star) are on the rise!

Top Dog Names:

Bella
Max
Buddy
Daisy
Bailey
Coco
Lucy
Charlie
Molly
Rocky

Top Cat Names:

Kitty
Bella
Tiger
Max
Smokey
Shadow
Tigger
Lucy
Chloe
Charlie

Canned pumpkin tops the list of the most nutritious fruits and vegetables! Rich in Vitamin C and E, high in fiber as well as antioxidants, it also helps to control loose stools. Add to that a teaspoon of cinnamon, an anti-inflammatory that improves blood circulation and helps regulate blood sugar and lower cholesterol, and you have a super nutritious and inexpensive treat for your best friend. This is a gluten free recipe that's great for dogs on a limited ingredient diet. Also, dogs suffering from diabetes or arthritis will benefit especially from this recipe.

Preparation time 5 minutes:

Ingredients:

3/4 Cup Dry Rolled Oats

1 - 15 oz Can of Pumpkin (not the spiced pie filling)

1 - Teaspoon Cinnamon

1/2 Cup Dry Powdered Milk

2 - Tablespoons Water
2 - Tablespoons of Molasses - optional

Place dollops on a greased (or Pam sprayed) cookie sheet, and bake for 15-20 minutes at 300 degrees.

Does your dog need to lose a little weight? Research shows that approximately 50% of american dogs are overweight, placing unnecessary stress on the animal's joints as well as spawning other health issues such as diabetes and heart disease. To help him shed those extra pounds, reduce the dry kibble by half a cup, and add in 1/2 cup of canned pumpkin. Pumpkin is low in calories, high in fiber and nutrients and will help your companion feel full and satisfied.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dimas_sc/3100685891/

A few breeders and I occasionally have a chuckle over the fact that pet buyers seem to be more concerned with knowing hip scores than are most other breeders. Perhaps the other breeders have already done their homework on the OFA database or our websites; it certainly appears that the puppy buyers have done their homework regarding finding a reputable breeder. Good for them; that’s the kind of home I like my puppies to go to.

Canine Hip Dysplasia is a physically debilitating disorder that is both emotionally and financial draining for dog owners. With no cure other than pain management or hip replacement surgery, diagnosis of hip dysplasia is the breeder’s as well as the pet owner’s heartbreak. Stocky breeds such as the Bulldog and those weighing over 60 pounds such as the St. Bernard experience hip dysplasia rates of up to 72% and 46% respectively. It is estimated by Cornell University that 22% of canine hospitalizations in the USA are hip dysplasia related. Interestingly, the disease’s occurrence is minimal in sight hounds such as the whippet, saluki, borzoi and greyhound with an average occurrence of just 1-2%. Border collies fall in the middle range of dysplasia occurrence at around 11%.

For over 40 years, breeders have attempted to minimize the occurrence of canine hip dysplasia (CHD) through the use of phenotypical screening methods. As a predictive method for removing poor breeding candidates from their breeding programs, responsible breeders have submitted x-rays of mature dogs for hip scoring to institutions such as the OFA, BVA, FCI and University of Pennsylvannia seeking to determine the laxity of the hip joint, and therefore the likelihood of the animal developing CHD as a trait that might be passed on to its progeny.

Various studies of the efficacy of these screening programs have met with mixed results. Some studies show little to no improvement in the occurrence of CHD. Even in countries, such as Finland, where an enforced threshold of hip scores was applied to registrations, results were varied across breeds, with some breeds demonstrating a lower incidence of CHD and others showing an actual increase in CHD.

Canine hip dysplasia is understood to be influenced by both genetic and environmental factors. As a polygenetic mode of inheritance has long been suspected, attempts to isolate the genetics of the disease have long been frustrated. Breeders seeking to improve their lines and their breed have been marginally successful as a whole, despite their best efforts. Forty years of breeders’ best efforts may call into question the scoring methodologies of the various institutions.

OFA vs. PennHIP

OFA uses a single radiographic view, the hip-extended view, to determine laxity of the hip joint (a predictive measure of the likelihood of developing CHD). By contrast, the PennHIP method uses 3 radiographic views (the distraction view, the compression view and the hip-extended view) to determine the laxity of the joint. A study released in 2010 by the University of Pennsylvania (http://webcanine.com/2010/canine-hip-dysplasia-may-be-underreported/), compared results from dogs scored by both OFA and PennHIP to determine the likelihood of CHD onset. Their findings were disturbing. According to Penn researchers, “Even if breeders were to selectively breed only those dogs having OFA-rated “excellent” hips — the highest ranking but in some breeds, a very small gene pool, the study suggests that 52-100 percent of the progeny, depending on breed, would be susceptible to hip dysplasia based on the Penn Vet scoring method.” In fact 52% of the dogs with OFA “excellent” scores, 82% of the OFA “good” scores and 95% of the OFA “fair” scores fell below the PennHIP threshold of.3, making them by PennHIP standards susceptible to CHD. (It should be noted that the University of Pennsylvania holds the patent for the PennHIP test, and a financial incentive could exist in their findings). Could the PennHIP method provide the key to a significant reduction in incidence of CHD?

PennHIP allows for early testing of puppies; they may be tested as early as sixteen weeks, which is still well beyond the typical puppy placement age of around 8 weeks. By contrast, OFA scores may not be obtained until the dog has reached 2 years of age. As 3 x-ray views are required for the PennHIP testing method, depending on your area of the country, the cost can be substantially greater than OFA testing. Additionally, the PennHIP method does not currently have the same recognition international as the OFA methodology. What if a genetic test existed that could predict the likelihood of developing CHD?

Genetic Testing

The canine genome project, begun in June 2003, determined that the canine genome contains approximately 2.5 billion DNA pairs, much like that of humans and other mammals. In 2004, a preliminary set of about 600,000 single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs), which amounts to a SNP roughly every 5,000 DNA base pairs, was released to researchers to aid in the study of genetically transmitted diseases and disorders. Armed with this massive amount of data, researchers at the Department of Animal Science, China Agricultural University,Beijing, China developed an algorithm that accurately predicts CHD from genomic data. This means that puppies can be tested prior to weaning, in fact as soon as DNA is available, allowing for poor breeding prospects to be petted-out well before maturity.

The Beijing researchers’ model was based on 359 dogs in the first sample and 38 dogs in the second sample. The dogs whose results were used in the study came from the Baker Institute, The Guiding Eyes for the Blind and Cornell University Hospital for Animals (as the 38 dog control group).

They began by developing an Estimated Breeding Value (EBV) of each of the dogs based on 4 criteria: the dog’s Norberg Angle (NA), OFA score, the distraction index (DI) and the dorsolateral subluxation score (DLS). The former two are evaluated from the extended hip projection and are phenotypically as well as genetically correlated while the latter two are evaluated on different x-ray views and are also phenotypically and genetically correlated. It is interesting to note that the researchers believed that no measure alone completely represents hip morphology. In fact, their methodology was the similar to that of the PennHIP with the OFA score thrown in for good measure. In the final analysis, the Norberg angle (NA) correlated to the OFA score and as most dogs had NAs measured, NA was chosen for this study to determine the EBV. The researchers then used 22,000 SNP’s across the genome and the EBV of the sample dogs to produce the predictive formula, an algorithm, termed the Genomic Breeding Value (GBV).

Validation of the Formula Methodology:

The researchers performed two types of validations consisting of a cross validation and an independent validation. For the cross validation they used a Jackknife Cross Validation. This consisted of hiding the dog’s EBV and removing its GBV from the dataset used to create the original predictive formula. The formula was then recalculated by using the EBV and genotype from the other 358 dogs in the study. This process was repeated for each of the 359 dogs. The cross validation performed showed a strong correlation (R>0.7) above 70% between the EBV (phenotype) and the GBV (genetic).

To develop the independent validation, the GBV formula was applied to 38 Labrador retriever dogs with no pedigree relationship to the original 359 dogs from which the GBV formula was derived. Correlations between the predicted GBV and the actual EBV (the physical conformation of the dog) were compared.

The Results:

When 5,000 SNPs out of the original 22,000 SNPs remained in the formula, the correlation was remarkable, above 0.98 or 98%. The researchers then identified the 100-500 most influential SNPs that had provided the most information to the GBV formula. The reduced number of SNPs showed that genomic prediction could remain effective with the most influential 100-500 SNPs chosen from the original 22,000SNPs. However, as the number of SNPs in the reference panel dropped below 50, the formula became significantly less reliable.

The Beijing researchers expect that a reliable GBV predictive formula for hip conformation will be available for most breeds of interest, “Prediction of CHD from genomic data is feasible, and can be applied for risk management of CHD and early selection for genetic improvement to reduce the prevalence of CHD in breeding programs. The prediction can be implemented before maturity, at which age current radiographic screening programs are traditionally applied, and as soon as DNA is available.” However, phenotypical testing (hip x-ray grading) will continue to be necessary in order to retrain the GBV predictive formula, and thereby refine the accuracy of the genomic predictive model.

While the majority of the 359 dogs used in the study were Labrador retrievers and Lab crosses with Greyhounds, other minor breeds’ hip morphologies were also well predicted by the GBV formula. Therefore, we can expect that multiple breeds will be able to be integrated together into a single genetic test, even though they are from diversified phenotypic and genotypic populations.

Implications:

The possibility of a genetic test for predicting CHD in young puppies raises some interesting ethical questions. Puppies genetically predisposed to CHD should be removed from breeding programs, but where do they go? What are the ethics of breeders presenting puppies to pet puppy buyers knowing that they have a strong likelihood (70% or greater) of developing CHD? Additionally, if the genetic statistics correspond with those of the University of Pennsylvania survey, we are left with a very small gene pool in many breeds. Add to that other genetic disorders being researched, such as cancer and breed specific issues, and the gene pool of good breeding candidates is likely to grow even smaller. Relying on a substantially reduced gene pool could have unintended consequences. Recessive, genetic “trash” could manifest into new, more terrifying health issues.

These are all questions that are sure to be discussed heatedly as understanding of the canine genome progresses. Once these tests are available to the public, they will have to be financially feasible in order to effectively make an impact on breeding programs. As we approach this new era in breeding prospect selectivity, perhaps a stepped approach to improving breeding prospects is in order. Under this approach, initially breeders would breed one dog with a relatively high EBV and GBV to one with a moderate EBV and GBV, and seek to improve the GBV threshold for the sire or dam on each successive generation. This would be a measured approach, however canine generations evolve very quickly – every 2 years compared with 20 years in humans. Your thoughts and comments are welcomed!

photo credit: Dimas_ via photopin cc

The 2013 Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show will be televised tonight (February 10^th) 8:00-11:00 PM EST on CNBC network. The Hound, Toy Herding and Non-Sporting Groups will compete for the honors to go on to Best in Show Tuesday night.

Please note, Tuesday night Westminster will be televised on a different station at 8:00-11:00 PM EST on the USA network. Winners of the Sporting Working and Terrier Groups will join the previous day’s winners in the thrilling Best in Show competition. Look for LIVE - STREAMING coverage of the breed classes on the Westminster site at www.westminsterkennelclub.org!

This year The Westminster Kennel Club has made major changes in what is to be one of the most exciting dogs show on Earth. From the top down big changes are in store for us; starting with the addition of Reserve Best in Show! Competitors in the breed classes winning Best Opposite and the Selects will gain points towards their Grand Championships as well. Because the breed classes have been moved to a 200,000+ square foot facility at Piers 92/94 on West 55th and the West Side Highway, a record number of dogs, some 3200 competitors representing 187 breeds and varieties, will be allowed to compete for the honors.

Additionally, class dogs (non-champions) will be allowed to compete for the honors for the first time since 1991! In order to be eligible, class dogs must have received at least one 3 point major; class winners dog and winners bitch will receive points towards their Championships.

Two new breeds will be invited to compete this year as well. Westminster welcomes the Tree Walker Coonhound and the Russell Terrier breeds. Learn more about these breeds at www.AKC.org.

Pure bred dogs offer puppy seekers the opportunity to match their family’s needs with the traits and temperament characteristics of the dog that may best suit their home environment. Each dog breed was bred to perform a specific set of tasks. For that reason, each breed’s body structure, instincts and temperament have been molded over generations, in many instances centuries, through selective breeding, to develop the breed’s type. While there are no guarantees on temperaments, pure bred dogs offer prospective owners a good idea of what their puppy will grow up to look like, what is energy level is likely to be, as well as its inherent instincts, tendencies and general personality characteristics.

Where To Start Looking

If you are still choosing between several dog breeds or have already set your sights on a particular breed, a good starting place is a dog show. Most AKC breeds will be represented there, and in many instances breeders will be ringside as well. This is an opportunity for you to meet a number of specimens of each breed under high stress circumstances. You’ll get a good sense of which breeds are laid-back or high strung, and you’ll learn pretty much the same thing about the breeders as well. InfoDog.com has a listing of most of the AKC events occurring around the country, including conformation shows, rally, herding, obedience and agility trials. Click on this link, and you will find a map of the USA. Click on your state and a list of all upcoming AKC events will be displayed. The AKC website has a similar list, but I find this one is the easiest to navigate.

If you are interested in training in performance events, such as agility, herding, flyball or disc dog, you may prefer to visit a trial to see which breeds are the most successful. There you can meet the dog handlers, who can then point you to breeders who are respected in that particular performance venue.

As you narrow your focus, you can gain more in depth information about the breed from the AKC Breed Parent Club. AKC.org offers links to each of the parent clubs, which act as the stewards of their respective breeds. The parent clubs work in conjunction with the AKC to support breed specific health research, rescue programs and maintenance of the breed standard. They also offer breeder referral listings with links to member breeder’s websites.

What to look for in a Breeder

As you peruse the breeders’ websites, you will want to see that the breeder is actively working with their dogs in the canine community. You should see evidence, through titles, of successful competition in either conformation, therapy or performance venues. These titles help to assure you that the breeder is producing dogs that are judged to be fit to do the work the breed was designed to do. Titles also tell you that the breeder is actively working with his or her dogs to train and socialize them.

You will want to see health clearances listed for the breeding stock on their website. OFA scores for hip and elbow clearances are universally expected. Your chosen breed is likely to have some breed specific issues that require DNA testing or routine examination. The parent club’s website will have alerted you to the health screenings that should properly be performed for their breed prior to breeding.

Sample AKC Breeder of Merit Banner

The AKC recently added a new designation for breeders called the Breeder of Merit Program. Breeders of Merit must have attained at least four AKC titles on their dog’s progeny, have been participating in AKC events a minimum of 5 years, must perform all applicable health testing required for their breed and must agree to achieve 100% AKC registrations for their litters. As an AKC Breeder of Merit, I fulfill the final requirement by including AKC registration in my puppy’s purchase agreement. Breeders of Merit will display the AKC breed specific Breeder of Merit Banner on their websites. The AKC also maintains a list of their current Breeders of Merit which you can view by clicking here.

Red flags include websites that display one or two dogs of each breed with 4 or more different breeds being produced. You want to see depth in the breeding program regarding the progeny the breeder has produced. One or two dogs per breed and multiple breeds, suggests a breeding farm or puppy mill. You can also Google your prospective breeders. Disappointed puppy buyers can be very vocal regarding poor treatment they have received as well as health issues that have developed in their puppies.

Puppies need to be with their litter mates for important socialization lessons until they are 8 weeks of age. A breeder that is willing to let the puppies go any earlier than eight weeks should be avoided. Furthermore, there is a growing trend to spay and neuter puppies between 2 and 6 weeks of age. This is an abhorrent idea; puppies need the hormones from their reproductive organs in order to properly develop. Puppies should not be altered prior to 6 months of age, so walk away from any breeder suggesting or advertising otherwise.

Starting the Conversation

Once you have selected the breeder or breeders that interest you, you will want to contact them via email. In your introductory email, you should tell the breeder a little bit about yourself. They will want to know what experience you have had, if any, with their breed, details on your home environment including children, fenced yard etc… and whether you are seeking a pet companion, performance dog or show dog. As your communications progress, you can request a copy of their sales contract. Breeders typically have 2 or more contracts depending on whether the puppy is being purchased as a pet or show/breeding prospect.

The reputable breeder’s contract should offer a health guarantee that the puppy be free from genetic defects up to the age of 1 year old. Typically, if a health issue should arise, the breeder will offer to replace the puppy with one from a new breeding. Prior to replacing the puppy, the breeder will need to see documentation from a veterinarian that the health condition exists. I have yet to see a contract that offered a money-back guarantee, so you should not expect to see that in a puppy contract. Some breeders will demand that the genetically impaired dog be returned prior to the buyer receiving the replacement puppy. I believe this requirement is designed to discourage puppy buyers from invoking the guarantee. The reputable breeder has no use for the puppy with a genetic issue, and the family typically has grown very attached to the puppy, in spite of its health issue. In my opinion, demanding the puppy back as a requirement of the health guarantee is not in keeping with the spirit of good breeding and puppy placement practices.

Expect that most contracts will place restrictions on the puppy’s exercise up to the age of one year old. Puppies should not be road worked or jumped over 6 inch high obstacles prior to that age. Too much imposed, high impact exercise can damage the growth plates, and evidence of malnutrition or over work will void the health guarantee for joint related issues.

The reputable breeder’s contract should also require that the puppy be returned to them, should the buyer no longer be able to keep the puppy. Some contracts will allow for re-homing, but only after breeder approval of the new home.

Pet contracts will require spaying or neutering after the age of six months. Show/breeding contracts should also place restrictions on when the animal may be bred, what titles must be achieved before breeding and where the puppy’s progeny may be placed. Typical puppy progeny placement restrictions include: no testing facilities, no pet shops sales, no sales to countries that do not have animal rights laws.

The buyer’s obligations begin with their first trip to the vet. Most contracts will allow a 72 hour period for the new owner to take their puppy to the vet for its initial exam. Should a serious issue with the puppy’s health be discovered, it can be returned to the breeder for a full refund or replacement puppy. The following issues are generally not considered health problems:Worms, ear-mites, coccidia or giardia, fleas, diarrhea caused by feeding non-recommended foods, and/or cow's milk (unless in current diet), injuries occurring after the sale. Vet bills are the responsibility of the buyer. However, the buyer should not expect to receive a puppy riddled with parasites inside and out. The breeder should provide the buyer with a list of the de-worming medications and the dates administered, and the puppy should have received at least one vaccination prior to leaving the breeder’s kennel. Proper worming protocols call for the puppies to be wormed at 2, 4, 6, 8 and 12 weeks of age. The first vaccination may be administered approximately 2 weeks after weaning, which varies from litter to litter, but seven weeks would be typical.

Most reputable breeders will require that the puppy receive adequate nutrition, they may specify that a premium food be fed, and that the puppy have access to fresh water and adequate shelter at all times. Additionally, my contract specifies that the puppy must attend a puppy manners or obedience series of classes prior to six months of age in order to help promote the socialization process.

Kiri and her new born puppies delivered c-section

The Most Important Characteristic of Your Breeder

When you purchase a puppy from a breeder, you are entering into a partnership that will last the lifetime of your dog. You will have myriad questions regarding your puppy and his breed as he develops and as he ages. Reputable breeders will want to be kept abreast of any health concerns that may develop over the dog’s lifetime. Make sure that you feel comfortable communicating with the breeder. Arrogant, aloof and judgmental breeders will be a deterrent to getting your questions answered. A good breeder can offer sound advice on healthcare, training, training facilities as well as breed specific issues and research developments in the breed.

Properly done, breeding is a labor of love. Breeders dedicate themselves to maintaining the characteristics of their breed and improving the quality of their lines. Costs in a successful breeding can be very high, and not all breedings take. In my breed, border collies, stud fees range from $1000.00 to $2500.00, with $1500.00 being typical. Getting to the stud dog involves time off from work and travel expense or reproductive services to collect and ship semen to the female. Artificial insemination or surgical implant procedures require multiple progesterone tests to time the female’s cycle. Small litters and certain breeds may routinely require c-sections. Adding up stud fees, health clearance testing, DNA testing, reproductive services, vaccinations and worming medications a litter can cost on average of $3000.00 to produce. A scheduled c-section typically adds $900.00 and emergency c-sections in the wee hours of the morning can add as much as an additional $2,500.00 depending on your area of the country. And then there is the considerable time spent raising the litter: changing linens in the whelping box, handling the puppies and exposing them to new experiences in order to help them develop into well adjusted adults. With all of the time spent rearing the puppies, the good breeder should be able to tell you a little bit about the temperaments of each of the puppies and help match the right puppy to your family's needs and lifestyle.

Puppies emerging from their den

In my experience crate training, properly done, provides owners with peace of mind during those times when the owner cannot monitor the activities of their new puppy or dog. While many crate training articles focus on crate training as a tool for house breaking or potty training, this article is focused on how to make your dog’s crate a natural, cozy home.

Dogs are essentially den animals by nature, meaning they instinctively enjoy being in dark close quarters. In the wild, expectant mothers dig dens in order to whelp and raise their new puppies. In fact, I have a border collie girl that regularly digs dens or re-excavates old dens in accordance with her seasons to prepare for her coming or imaginary litters. These dens are relatively spacious, and will protect the puppies from the elements such as summer heat, winter snow and rain. Their den maintains a relatively constant temperature, as it is typically one foot underground. Here the puppies will stay until they begin to walk and venture out short distances from the den, returning to the den to sleep and nurse. With proper introduction to his new crate, your dog’s natural instincts will cause him or her to seek out his crate for nap time or safe haven in times of stress.

Selecting the Proper Crate: There are 3 basic types of crates on the market: the soft sided crate, the wire mesh crate or the plastic hard-sided crate. Save the soft sided crate for later, at a time when the dog is properly crate trained and has learned to seek comfort in a crate. Soft crates are easily destroyed, causing unnecessary expense to the owner, and teaching the dog that if they try hard enough, they will eventually be able to set themselves free. The soft crate is only appropriate for dogs who are already crate trained and comfortable in their private den area. However, they are great for travel and indoor containment of the well mannered dog, as they offer den-like privacy via their mesh windows and adjustable fabric flaps.

The plastic or sheet metal sided crates are an excellent option for the adult dog. They offer den-like privacy and are the only crates rated for air travel. On the down side, plastic crates are not easy to disassemble and reassemble, which is not a problem for small dog crates, but becomes an issue when moving large dog crates within the home or on a trip from car to hotel room. Additionally, they cannot be safely reconfigured to adapt for growing puppies.

This leaves the collapsible wire mesh crate with a moveabledivider as the preferred training crate for growing dogs as well as for travel with large dogs. You will want to purchase a crate that will accommodate your puppy when fully grown, and that also includes a divider which you can use to limit his sleeping area to a size that allows him to easily turn around and stretch out as well as easily adjust as he grows. When fitting his sleeping area, the sleeping space should allow for comfortable rest but should not be so large that it provides him with enough space for him stake out two areas: one for sleeping and one for eliminating. A puppy that gets into the habit of soiling his crate will be very difficult to house break. The privacy-den effect can be added to the wire crate by draping the crate with a sheet or towel.

Kennel-Up! On day one, it’s a good idea to start by teaching your dog to enter his crate on command. You can begin by saying, “kennel-up”, “go to your crate,” “get in” or any phrase of your choosing, and then tossing a treat into the crate. Your dog will quickly find going into the crate is a rewarding exercise. Initially leave the crate door open to let him come and go as he pleases. Repeat the training session several times during the first few days with 4-5 “kennel-ups” or “go-in’s” per session. If you plan on using clicker training, you will want to click the clicker when the dog enters the crate to retrieve his reward. Once he begins to enter the crate on command, switch to treating him after he has entered the crate on his own. As his understanding of the command solidifies, you can begin to reward him intermittently.

Feed His Meals in the Crate. Give the command to “kennel-up,” and once the dog has entered the crate, give him his food, and shut the crate door. For young puppies, you will want to take them out for a potty break within 30-45 minutes after the puppy has finished his meal. If you have multiple dogs, crate feeding is a good way to prevent rapid eaters from muscling-out the slower eaters from their food bowls.

Bedtime: If possible, we recommend bringing the crate to your bedroom for bedtime to keep an eye on him and provide some extra comfort in his new surroundings. As the dog becomes more comfortable in his crate, you may choose to crate him in the evenings in another area of the house. You can include a chew toy in the crate to entertain him until he exhausts; we recommend selecting one without a squeaker.

Be prepared, you may have a night or two of your dog or puppy “crying” himself to sleep. Be careful not to let the dog out of his crate while he is barking or misbehaving. Only let him out when he is behaving himself, unless you suspect he is about to have a potty accident. You can recognize a puppy or dog that is in need of a potty break, if you see him turning in circles and looking at the bottom of the crate. In that instance carry him out for a potty (literally if this is a young puppy), praise him for the potty, give him a short walk as a reward and then return him to the crate for the evening. Remember to give him a small reward for kenneling-up at bedtime as well. In the morning, be careful to get your dog to his potty area immediately after leaving his kennel. With young puppies, carry them outside to avoid unintended accidents on the way to the door.

A Word of Caution: While sleeping in the evenings, the dog’s digestive system slows down considerably, allowing him to remain crated for an 8 hour stretch. During the daytime, dogs should be crated a maximum of 4 to 5 hours at a time. It is important that during their crate time they have access to water; a stainless steel pail hooked to the side of the crate or crate door works best.

Young puppies require more frequent potty breaks than adults. Puppy ages and their relative maximum crating times are:

8-10 weeks 30-60 minutes

11-14 weeks 1-3 hours

15-16 weeks 3-4 hours

17+ weeks 4-5 hours

If you are on a working schedule that prevents you from coming home to give your dog regular potty breaks, you will want to create an indoor pen area or hire a professional dog walker. When creating an indoor pen, select a site with an easy to clean floor and provide puppy potty training pads, so that he has an appropriate area to eliminate on. Most puppy training pads come with a scent to encourage elimination on them and not other areas of the pen. Before leaving for work and penning or crating your puppy or dog, be sure to give him at least 30 to 60 minutes of exercise depending on his size and age. Make sure to release him as soon as you return. Your arrival will trigger excitement and speed up his digestive system.

When you are home and enjoying time with your new puppy or dog, leave the door to the crate open, and you will soon find that he looks forward to relaxing in his own private area. If you are planning on a task that you expect your dog to find unpleasant, such as a bath, close the door to the crate before he realizes your intentions, so that he cannot hide in it. You want to avoid turning his safe haven into a battle ground with you trying to drag him out of his den.

According to the American Pet Products Association, Americans spent an estimated $52 billion dollars on their pets in 2012, with an estimated $19 billion of that being spent of pet food. Clearly Americans love their pets, and as pet food recalls have heightened pet owners’ concerns about pet food safety and nutrition, many “Premium” foods have entered the market, competing for those dollars. With the typical pet super market containing 6-8 aisles of dog food and 4-5 aisles of cat food, how is the health conscious pet owner to decipher the labels and choose the best food for their pet with a reasonable price tag?

The Cover Story: Food, Recipes and Flavors – What’s in The Bag?

The FDA and the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) have regulated guidelines for how pet foods products may be labeled and marketed. Many so called premium dog foods have found creative marketing tactics for dodging these regulations while luring consumers with promises of holistic or evolutionary diets.

When I first learned that FDA requirements stated that a dog food labeled as “Salmon for Dogs” must contain at least 95% salmon (by weight percentage), I was stuck by the fact that my premium dry dog kibble barely even smells like seafood. I went to double check the label. My premium food calls itself a “Life Protection Formula,” later defined in smaller print as a “Fish and Sweet Potato Recipe.” Many other ingredients follow on the side of the package so what gives?

Recipes, Dinners and Formulas fall under different rules with regards to FDA and AAFCO labeling regulations. A pet food using one of these monikers need only contain between 25% and 95% of the main ingredient listed on the front label. The food must contain more of the first listed ingredient on the label than the following label ingredients. So my fish and sweet potato formula, by AAFCO regulations, might only contain 13% fish and 12% sweet potato. If it said “Fish, Sweet Potato and Oatmeal Recipe,” I might expect the food to contain perhaps 10% fish, 8% sweet potato and 7% oatmeal. Other terms used under this rule include entrée, platter, pate or shreds.

Trickier still is the word“With” Pet food bags that market ingredients using the term “with” need only contain 3% of the additional ingredient. For example, if my food bag read “sweet potatoes with fish recipe,” then the manufacturer would only be required to put 3% fish in the product. Products with names like “TurDucKen” and “Shepherds Pie” fall completely outside of regulation. You will have to delve deeper and check the ingredient list on the side or bottom of the package to know what the manufacturer is actually selling in that bag or can.

Finally, there is the packaging descriptor “Flavor.” Foods that are flavored with beef, chicken or fish, have no strict percentage requirements other than it should contain a sufficient amount that the flavor be detectable by the pet. Interestingly, the product need not contain the actual product that is “flavoring” the dinner. Manufacturers may use other ingredients that simulate the flavor, so a beef flavored dinner may not contain any beef at all. Professional dog food taste testers determine if the flavor can be detected. These dogs are trained to respond to the presence of a scent in order to indicate that the food possesses that essence or flavor.

Gravy, Sauce and Aspic – Purchasing Cans of Water

Moisture, the amount of water in the dog food, ranges from about 8-10% in dry Kibble to 78% in canned pet food. AAFCO limits the amount of moisture to 78% of weight, but manufactures can add more liquid, 79%+ moisture as a percent of weight, to the overall meal by adding phrases such as “in sauce,” “in gravy” or “with aspic.” 79% or more of moisture seems like a waste of money, although for animals with kidney disease needing to increase their water intake, high moisture foods may be of value.

“Grain-free”foods do not contain wheat, soy or corn; three ingredients that animals frequently have trouble digesting. It is interesting to note that these are three crops that have undergone substantial genetic engineering over the last few decades. “Gluten-Free” products can include corn, but not wheat, rye or soy. Most “sensitive stomach” formulas are based on rice, oatmeal or potato for the bulk of their carbohydrates.

Life Stages Labeling

Frequently manufacturers will divide their product lines in a series of life stages formulas. Puppy or Kitten, Adult and senior are typical stages. AAFCO has established two nutrient profiles each for dogs and cats—growth/lactation and maintenance—to fit their life stages. Through feeding trials, the manufacturer tests the product on dogs or cats under strict guidelines. Products found to provide proper nutrition based on these feeding trials may carry a statement such as: "Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that “This Product” provides complete and balanced nutrition for (specific life stage)." Products found to be suitable for an adult are referred to as maintenance diets, which may or may not provide adequate nutrition for animals in the lactating or growth phase, or hard working animals. Large Breed, Small Breed and Senior formulas mean that they meet the requirements of a maintenance, adult diet and nothing more. “All Life Stages” diets meet both the requirements for maintenance and the higher nutritional requirements of the growth diet.

Holistic, Natural, Premium and Organic Labeling

The terms Holistic and Premium are not defined by AAFCO or the FDA and therefore have no legal meaning. These labels are “sales puffs,” and are defined by the individual consumer’s imagination. “Natural,” however does have a legal definition in the pet food industry. Natural products are defined by AAFCO as:

“A food or ingredient derived solely from plant, animal, or mined sources, either in its unprocessed state or having been subject to physical processing, heat processing, rendering, purification, extraction, hydrolysis, enzymolysis, or fermentation, but not having been produced by or subject to a chemically synthetic process and not containing any additives or processing aids that are chemically synthetic except in amounts which might occur unavoidably in good manufacturing practices.”

Natural products may not contain synthetic additives (which include certain dyes, preservatives and chemically produced flavor enhancers), as well as many trace elements such as taurine and vitamins which are synthetically derived. Manufacturers choosing to add vitamins or other nutrients to a “Natural” product must label their products with a disclaimer such as, “Natural ingredients with vitamins added.”

Organic foods also have a legal definition and must follow strict growing, harvesting and processing procedures. Under the current FDA standard the term organic is applied to human foods, and can only be applied to pet foods if the human standards have been met. Organic on the label indicates that the food has been produced through methods that promote cycling of resources, ecological balance and biodiversity. Furthermore organic protiens must be raised without the use of drugs such as hormones and antibiotics.

A Pet food wherein more than 95% of the ingredients meet the human standard may display the USDA organic seal. When organic contents, after moisture has been removed, are between 70%+ and 95%, the label may say, “Made with organic ingredients.” And those foods with 70% or fewer organic ingredients, may list the organic ingredients in the ingredient list, but cannot make mention of organic anywhere else on the labeling.

What does all of this mean when you are perusing the pet food aisles? Don’t expect to find a pet food that meets the 95% rule and in order to be able to call itself a “beef” or “lamb” pet food. Even Nature’s Variety Instinct Raw frozen food, which guarantees a minimum of 95% meat and bone meal, promotes itself as a formula.

If you are concerned about additives and the processing of your pet’s food, you will want to see “Natural” on the label. If hormones, antibiotics and sustainability concern you, then you will need to seek out those pet foods that proudly display the USDA Organic seal. You will find that the manufacturers of organic pet foods are very proud of their foods and price them accordingly. $60 for a 30 pound bag of food would be the average going price for a certified organic dog food. And if you’re just looking for a food with a good protein balance, you will have to flip the bag or can and investigate the ingredient list further.

Once you have identified three or four pet food brands of interest, it’s time to compare theingredient lists to see which provides the optimal value and nutritional content.

To learn more about Ingredients please read: Understanding and Comparing Pet Food Ingredients

Comparing dog food ingredients, once you look at the paragraph on the side of the bag, may seem like it requires a PHD to decipher. Protein meals, by-products and tocopherols abound. Many authorities on dog food and nutrition recommend that buyers avoid any dog food containing by-products while others eschew grain based products. Understanding dog food ingredients and their legal definitions as well as the guaranteed analysis will help you to better compare dog foods and find the best value and nutritious diet for your four legged companion.

Dog Food Ingredients Comparison 101:

The ingredients are listed on the food packaging by their weight, in descending order. Ingredients are listed on an“as fed basis,” which can make interpretation of ingredient lists difficult, as key ingredients are regularly added with differing moisture contents. Meats contain more moisture which results in greater weight per volume, and therefore they may be listed first on the ingredient list. Furthermore, while we are pleased to see the protein listed as the first ingredient, it may in actuality be third or lower on the least. Manufacturers can mislead consumers through the process of “splitting” ingredients. A label that reads:

“Turkey (natural source of glucosamine), brewers rice, corn gluten meal, poultry by-product meal (natural source of glucosamine), oat meal, whole grain wheat, corn germ meal, soy flakes, whole grain corn, soybean germ meal, animal fat preserved with mixed-tocopherols (form of Vitamin E), soybean meal...”

may actually have corn as the number one ingredient. The manufacturer has split corn into 3 ingredients: corn gluten meal, corn germ meal and whole grain corn. In addition, many other carbohydrates follow the first ingredient, Turkey, without any additional animal meats, meals or byproducts. We can suspect that this food’s protein level falls in the lower range of the 25-95% AAFCO protein requirement for pet food Formulas and Recipes.

Ingredient Definitions:

Animal Meat: AAFCO defines meat on an ingredient label as any combination of skeletal muscle meat or muscle meat found in the tongue, diaphragm, heart, and esophagus. The meat may or may not include fat, skin, sinew, nerves, and blood vessels that normally accompany muscle. Meat as an ingredient excludes feathers, hair, hooves, horns, teeth, heads, feet, and entrails.

Animal by-products: By-products are proteins that have not been heat process (unrendered) and may contain heads, feet, lungs and organ meats such as kidneys and liver. Hooves, hair, horns, teeth and feathers may not be included in this category. While many people avoid products with by-products in the ingredient list, they can be more nutritious than the muscle-meat form of the protein. Kidneys, lungs and liver are members of the by-products list and are high in nutritive value. Udders, bone and connective tissue, which may be included are relatively low in nutritive value. The ingredient list generally does not contain information on the quality of the ingredients used.

Animal Meal: You will frequently find Fish or Chicken meal listed in the first 4 ingredients of a pet food. Meal is derived from heat rendering the by-products to remove the moisture and fats from the by-product. Here is an example where the rendering process reduces the moisture and weight of this ingredient, allowing for greater actual volume of meal to meat in the formula, although the meat remains a higher level ingredient on the label.

Dried Whey: An inexpensive form of dried cow’s milk which adds protein, and has been linked with some digestive allergies.

Glutens, Brans and Hulls: Fillers that add fiber and bulk to the formula and are poor sources of protein, which may cause digestive upset.

Fruits and Vegetables: Always a rich source of natural vitamins and antioxidants, these are a big plus on the label!

Preservatives: Tocopherols are preservatives made from either Vitamin E or C or a combination of the two. They are preferred to chemical preservatives such as Ethoxyquin, BHA and BHT, which are suspect to cause chronic disease and cancer. Tocopherols are not as effective at preserving food for extended periods of time as are their chemical counterparts, especially once the seal has been broken on the packaging. Be sure to store dry food in an air tight container after opening, if your pet food is preserved with Tocopherals.

Food Additives: The following ingredients fall into the food additive category: Vitamins, Minerals, Antioxidant preservatives, Humectants (additives that retain moisture), Antimicrobial preservatives, Coloring agents (Red Dye 40 and 3, Blue dye 2 and Yellow5 are suspected carcinogens), Flavors, Palatability enhancers and Emulsifying agents.

Guaranteed Analysis:

The FDA required that manufacturers provide a guaranteed analysis on the package. The guaranteed analysis on the information panel of a pet food label lists the minimum levels of crude protein and fat (those ingredients that we would like to see more of) and the maximum levels of fiber and moisture (water) that will be found in the food (those fillers that we would like to see less of as they reduce the nutritive value of the food on a per cup basis). The protein and fat are listed as crude sources rather than as digestible sources, which can vary widely depending on whether they are from animal meats or meals. Double check the ingredient list to determine the sources of the protein and fat.

Generally speaking, foods high in fiber and lower in fat content make good choices for pets that need to lose weight. Large percentages of carbohydrates and corn in particular will cause pets to gain weight, and highly active dogs will require more protein and fat to support their increased energy levels.

How Do I Know Where These Ingredients Came From?

The US requires that the name and address of the pet food manufacturer, distributor, or dealer listed on the label. When one sees phrases such as “Distributed by…” or “Manufactured for…” or “Imported by…” we can expect that a company other than the company selling the product is the actual manufacturer of the pet food. Frequently the manufacturer is listed as a co-packer. In the US, products manufactured outside of the United States also require “Product of (country of origin).” Also required is the date of manufacture and “Expiry Date” or “Best Before Date” the date beyond which it is recommended to feed the product. Often retailers will discount products with fast approaching expiry dates. So double check those when purchasing pet food discounted on a “Manager’s Special.”

What does it all mean?

When researching ingredient lists on pet food labels, look to see at least two meat based protein sources in the first 4 ingredients on the list. Avoid pet foods that are in the practice of splitting ingredients, with individual ingredients broken down into whole grain corn, corn gluten meal, corn meal etc…Don’t pass-up products simply because they contain animal by-products. While by-products are not appetizing to most humans, they can be a rich source of nutrition.

Many vets and the FDA recommend changing or rotating your pet’s diet between several foods every 3 or 4 months; gradually swapping over to the new food over the course on one week. This can prevent deficiencies caused by dietary requirements as yet not fully known, as well as prevent the onset of allergies that can develop with overexposure to a particular ingredient in a single pet food. As you rotate your pet through several products, pay attention to weight gain or undesired weight loss as well as coat shine and skin condition. Dull coats and flakey skin indicate your pet is not getting adequate nutrition or may be developing an allergy. Remove any food creating the undesired effect from the rotation, noting which ingredients differ in that product from the more successful foods in your pets diet. By keeping track of those dietary ingredients on which your pet thrives and those that should be eliminated, you can sculpt the perfect diet for your pet’s individual needs.

By federico stevanin, published on 08 November 2008
Stock photo - image ID: 1001821

As scientists of various disciplines investigate the topic of dirt eating, or more accurately clay eating, they are discovering that it is more prevalent across geographic regions and among a wide variety of species than previously imagined. Humans, primates, dogs, cats, parrots, buffalo, deer and even fruit bats engage in clay eating or geophagia, a subset of pica. Until now it has been assumed that the animals engaging in geophagia were either malnourished or suffering from a form of obsessive compulsive disorder originating from boredom. New studies indicate that there may be other factors at work in the age old practice of clay eating. In our list of five reasons your dog eats clay, we offer up three traditional explanations as well as two new explanations that are gaining credence in the international dirt-eaters research community.

Boredom, Habit or OCD– It has been noted that bored dogs can get into the destructive habit of digging holes and then consuming the unearthed soil or clay as a by-product of the digging behavior. In some dogs, this behavior takes on an obsessive quality, with dogs digging 2-3 new holes per day, leaving yards pock-marked with ankle-bending divots. This behavior is different from that of the dog that returns to the same beloved spot in the yard for his daily dose of dirt, frequently an area of moist clay. Habitual digging is a behavioral issue that should be addressed with training, increased interaction and exercise.

Hunger– Some trainers have suggested that dogs fed a single meal a day are relieving hunger pains by adding a clay snack to their diet. If your dog is on a single meal regimen and eating soil, you may try stepping him up to two meals a day to see if that curbs his clay appetite. If that does not work, read on.

By Tina Phillips, published on 10 August 2012
Stock photo - image ID: 10095988

Nutrients– Soil contains many trace elements and nutrients that are not readily available in packaged foods; clay eaters may be seeking minerals that their normal diet is lacking. In fact, geophagia in expectant human mothers in Nigeria (an area low in available calcium) is a centuries-old indicator of pregnancy. In other regions of Africa, where calcium is readily available, clay eating is not particularly prevalent among expecting mothers. Perhaps the pregnant, clay-eating women in Nigeria and other regions of the world are adding calcium, sodium and iron to supplement their diets for their developing fetus.

Relief for Digestive Upset– For centuries man has used clay minerals to relieve vomiting, diarrhea and stomach upset. In fact, Kaopectate, a remedy for relief of gas, bloat and diarrhea, was originally formulated with Kaolin, a clay mineral. Ironically, clay can also contain parasites, which may create a vicious circle. The dog eats clay to alleviate the discomfort created by the parasites, while ultimately re-infecting himself with greater numbers of parasites. It’s a good idea to get a stool sample to the vet if your dogs is eating a lot of clay to rule out parasitic infestations.

Detoxification– Clay has long been considered a detoxifier, the Mesopotamians and ancient Egyptians used mud as a treatment for wounds and to treat various digestive ailments. Today, spas worldwide offer mud baths as a path to detoxification. As kaolin and other clay minerals have the ability to bind toxins and remove them from the system, this motive for clay eating has now moved to the forefront of scientific research.

Returning to the topic of pregnant clay eaters, women across Sub-Saharan regions and the Southern United States have consumed clay to alleviate morning sickness. It has been proposed that morning sickness is actually the body's attempt to remove toxins from the system. Even pregnant fruit bats increase their daily diet of clay. It is surmised that as they increase their diet of fruit as well as fruit seeds with toxic properties, they are using the clay to remove the additional toxins from their bodies. The binding properties of clay may not only be removing toxins from the system; clay possesses the additional ability to bind food born bacteria and viruses that would be harmful to the mother and developing fetus.

Ranchers too have long used clay when preparing livestock feed to inhibit toxin transmission. And now a few researchers are now proposing exploiting clay’s pathogen-binding talents to purify water.

Dogs eating packaged foods with traces of antibiotics or chamicals remaining in them or grass, weeds and run-off from treated lawns, may be attempting to remove toxins from their systems. It is likely that geophagia is a specific defense that has evolved across a spectrum of species to combat toxins and, possibly, ease mineral deficiencies. But, if you’re feeling that old kaolin craving, we suggest you stick with safe commercial products that have been heated or otherwise sterilized.

Courtesy of PDPics.com

Cancer is increasingly common in pet animals, and as pets age, the likelihood of contracting some form of the disease increases substantially. In fact, cancer accounts for almost half of the deaths of pets over 10 years of age. In breeds like the golden retriever it is estimated that between 60 and 80% will contract a form of cancer. But cancer is not restricted to geriatric canines, dogs as young as 4 years old may be diagnosed with it.

While dogs in general contract cancer at approximately the same rate as humans; cats tend to get fewer cancers, perhaps owing to their nine lives. Some cancers such as Hemangiosarcom and Oesteosarcoma have a higher rate of occurrence within certain breeds, suggesting a genetic component is probably at work. If your dog’s breed has a propensity for developing a specific type of cancer, it is a good idea to familiarize yourself with the early warning symptoms of the onset of the disease. Awareness of the signs of cancer in dogs combined with early detection and quick action can significantly improve the outcome for your pet.

If you suspect a combination of the following symptoms in your pet, consult your veterinarian promptly; when it comes to the health of your pet, it is always better to be safe now than sorry later.

Foul Odors from the Mouth or Other Orifices: Foul Odors from the Mouth: If you detect offensive odors emanating from your dog’s mouth, and there has been no change in diet, you should have it checked out. Halitosis combined with excessive drooling, difficulty eating or swallowing can be a sign of oral cancer. Bloody saliva indicates a prompt visit to the vet is in order. Bad odors from the ears, anal area or any other part of your pet’s body, should be checked out as well. While food allergies, mites, impacted anal glands, infections from bites or scrapes or yeast infections can cause foul odors, it is best to seek veterinary advice to clear up any of these conditions and check for the underlying cause of the odor.
Nasal discharge. This can be a sign of allergies, or especially if discolored or bloody, a symptom of cancer of the nasal and sinus cavities.
Excessive Drooling and Difficulty Eating or Swallowing. Excessive drooling, especially combined with a strong halitosis merits further investigation. Anytime a dog has difficulty eating or swallowing you should consult a veterinarian immediately.
Difficulty Breathing and Coughing. Dogs having difficulty breathing should be examined immediately. For both humans and dogs, shortness of breath is a critical symptom. Heart disease, lung cancer and hemangiosarcoma are potential underlying causes of breathing difficulties. Early detection of any of these diseases can improve your dog’s prognosis.
Excessive Panting. It is normal for dogs to pant following exercise (for 20-30 minutes) or in extremely warm conditions. Prolonged panting however may be a symptom of a severe injury or chronic illness such as heart failure, Cushing's syndrome, pneumonia or lung tumors.
Loss of Appetite. Dogs usually do not stop eating without a cause. If your dog suddenly loses his appetite and there has been no change in diet, you should consider a trip to the vet, particularly if it is combined with some of the other symptoms on this list. While this may not be a symptom of cancer, it could be a symptom of another serious issue where early intervention is beneficial.
Lethargy. Lack of stamina or fatigue developing over a relatively short time frame can be symptoms of cancer. Beyond normal aging, a dog that over a period of weeks or months that exhibits a noticeable decrease in activity levels should be seen by your veterinarian. Other possible causes of lethargy and lack of appetite can include parasites such as tapeworms, roundworms, hookworms and whipworms, conditions that you will also want to address quickly.
Depression. You can’t put your finger on it, but Rover just doesn't seem to be himself. Depressed dogs don’t seem to take pleasure in their usual activities; they tend to lie down away from the family activities exhibiting a decreased interest in their surroundings. This can be a symptom of a change in the family dynamic or environment, but if there have been no changes to the family routine, depression combined with a several other symptoms on this list should be noted when discussing your dog’s health with your veterinarian.
Changes in Bathroom Habits. A dog that is normally well house trained begins soiling the house (and there have been no changes in the household dynamics to upset him) or the consistency of the bowel movement is unusual. This symptom combined with depression were our first clues that something was wrong with our dog Kebe, prior to her being diagnosed with a branching cancerous tumor. Additionally, difficulty using the bathroom, frequent bathroom use or blood in urine or stool are all symptoms indicating a prompt visit to your vet is in order.
Abdominal Distention. If your dog’s abdomen becomes bloated or distended it could be a sign of an accumulation of abnormal discharge within the body. Accumulation of fluids can be indicative of congestive heart failure and cardiac hemangiosarcoma.
Lameness or Difficulty Walking. Sudden onset of lameness or pain during exercise, when the dog has not engaged in any extreme physical activities can be indicative of arthritis or bone cancer (osteosarcoma).
Weight Loss: Just as in humans, cancer can cause its victims to lose weight dramatically. If your pet has experienced weight loss, and you have not adjusted caloric intake or increased activity levels of your pet, then a trip to the vet is indicated. If you notice sudden weight loss in your dog, along with other signs from this list (especially weight loss combined with decreased activity levels), be sure to mention it to your veterinarian.
Vomiting or Diarrhea. Vomiting and/or excessive diarrhea that continue for more than a day should be checked out by a vet. At the very least, the dog may become dehydrated, a condition easily remedied by administration of fluids. Prolonged vomiting or the inablility to hold down fluids and solids can indicate pancreatitis, kidney disease or digestive cancer.
Lumps That are Unresolved or Growing. Not all lumps on or under your dog’s skin will be cancerous, but they are a cause for concern. If the lump is growing rapidly, is ulcerated or bleeding, is irregular in shape or warm or painful to the touch you should consult your veterinarian. While it may just be a cyst, your vet can perform a needle biopsy and a veterinary pathologist can determine if the cells are cancerous or not.
Sores That Don’t Heal. If your pet has wounds or sores that are not healing, it could be a sign of infection, skin disease, diabetes or cancer.

While many items on this list, when exhibited individually, are not cause for concern, an accumulation of 3 or more of these symptoms is reason to visit your veterinarian. As your pet ages, it is a good idea to routinely examine him by stroking and petting his entire body. Tummy rubs and scratching around the ears and neck can aid in detecting any unusually bumps, and your dog will enjoy it too. An annual physical examination along with annual laboratory analysis (for elderly pets) can be useful in early detection of a variety of disorders including those that affect the kidney, liver, heart or bowel.

Great Dane and Chihuahua Skeletons
Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

While Osteosarcoma represents just 5% of all canine tumors, it is estimated that between 6000 and 8000 new cases will be diagnosed this year in the United States. As the most common type of bone cancer in dogs, Osteosarcoma accounts for approximately 85% of canine tumors that originate in the skeletal system. This is an aggressive cancer where malignant tumors develop deep within the bone; from there they destroy healthy bone and remodel it with tumorous bone from the inside out. The tumerous bone becomes increasingly painful and is not as strong as healthy bone, potentially causing the bone to break easily with minor injury.

Risk Factors Associated With Development of Osteosarcoma In Dogs

Osteosarcoma is generally a disease of large breed dogs, and although any size dog may develop the disease, it is estimated that large breeds such as the Scottish Deerhound are 200 times more likely to develop the disease than are toy breeds. High risk breeds include Rottweilers, Deerhounds, Greyhounds, Great Pyrenees and Mastiffs as well as other large breed dogs. Typical age of onset is 7-10 years of age, however large breeds may develop the disease earlier, in fact there have been large breed cases with diagnosis as early as under one year of age.

Factors that are suspected in increasing risk of developing the disease in addition to breed size include puppy diets that promote rapid puppy growth, spay and neuter, genetics and environmental factors:

As tumors are frequently found near growth plates, factors that affect the growth rate and promote rapid growth are suspected in increasing likelihood of developing this cancer.
One long term historical study of Rottweilers showed that the earlier that a puppy was spayed or neutered the more likely it was to develop Osteosarcoma. Casterated males are 65% more likely to develop this cancer than intact males, and spayed females are 35% more likely to develop the disease than intact females.
As certain lines of dogs within breeds have an increased propensity for developing this cancer, a genetic component is suspected as well.
Fluoridation of drinking water has been linked to the development of Osteosarcoma in studies of both rats and young men in the North Eastern United States.

Diagnosis of Oesteosarcoma

Symptoms of Osteosarcoma will vary based on the location of the primary tumor. As the tumor grows, the affected area becomes increasingly painful. Swelling eventually develops around the tumor and the area is painful to the touch.

Development of a tumor in a leg bone may cause sudden onset lameness or intermittent lameness over a period of several weeks.
Dog with tumors in their jaw bones may exhibit difficulty swallowing and/or excessive drooling.
Dogs with cranial or spinal tumors may present with neurologic deficits.
Dogs with pelvic tumors may exhibit difficulty defecating as their primary symptom.

It is important to see a veterinarian as soon as you suspect the disease, as it progresses very rapidly. In most instances once a diagnosis of Osteosarcoma has been made, it has already micrometastasized to other areas of the body including the lungs and other bones. Additionally, as the tumorous bone is weaker than normal bone, it can fracture easily. Pathological fractures resulting from Osteosarcoma will not heal, so it is important to begin treatment as soon as possible.

Diagnosis is initially made by x-ray. Once a bone tumor is suspected, the veterinarian should take x-rays of the lungs as well to see if the tumor has metastasized to that area. Prognosis and treatment options will vary greatly if metastasis is evident in the lungs. The tumor will also be aspirated with a small needle to obtain a sample of the tumor for further analysis and determination of the nature of the tumor. This procedure does carry a small risk that the aspiration of the tumor could fracture the already weakened bone.

Additionally, the vet may aspirate the lymph nodes or any skin masses, do a full blood panel and perform an abdominal ultrasound in order to determine the spread of the cancer and overall health of the dog. A bone scan may be performed in order to determine the spread of the disease to other bones and the extent of the tumor in the primary location.

Treatment For Osteosarcoma

The standard of care for the treatment of Osteosarcoma requires that the tumor be removed to prevent further spread of the disease. In most instances, this means amputation of the affected limb. Dogs typically respond well to this treatment, however overweight dogs, arthritic dogs or elderly dogs may not be good candidates for amputation.

If the tumor has not progressed too far, a limb sparing procedure may be attempted. The most successful procedures are performed where the tumor is on the bone just above the wrist of the dog and the tumor is still relatively small in size. Generally in these procedures, the removed bone must be replaced with bone from another site on the dog or from a bone bank. Since there is a high complication rate with this procedure and a longer, more involved recovery than an amputation, amputation may eventually be necessary anyway.

In cases where neither amputation nor limb sparing procedures can be performed, the dog may be treated with palliative radiation therapy. While radiation will not extend the life of the dog, it can be an effective pain management tool to improve the quality of the remaining life of the dog. This treatment provides relief to approximately 75% of the dogs that receive this therapy. Radiation doses are given 1 to 4 times and are usually administered at one week intervals.

Follow-up to surgical removal of the tumor or limb includes chemotherapy. In most instances the tumor has already micrometastisized at the time of diagnosis. Chemotherapy, while not effective in treating tumors with visible signs of existence, is effective at destroying the microscopic disease.

Prognosis After Treatment For Osteosarcoma

Following surgery, dogs that do not receive chemotherapy can expect an average life span of an additional 3 months post surgery. Those treated with chemotherapy may enjoy a median lifespan of one year. Approximately 50% treated with both surgery and chemotherapy will survive 1 year, less than 30% will survive two years and 10% will make it to 3 years. While these statistics sound discouraging, it is important to keep in mind that in dog years, and especially in large breeds with shorter life expectancies, an additional year represents between 10-13% of a dog’s total expected life span.

Improving Your Dogs Odds At Preventing Development Of Osteosarcoma

If you have a large breed dog, or are aware that this issue has developed within your dog’s lines, there are some precautions you can take to improve his odds at heading-off or delaying the onset of the disease.

Feed your puppy an “all life stages” dog food, and not a specially formulated puppy food that will accelerate growth.
Wait until your dog is at least one year old before spaying or neutering him or her. Leave males intact if you have a well fenced yard and no intact females in the home.
Provide spring water for drinking water for your dog; carbon based filters such as PUR and Brita do not remove fluoride.
Regularly examine your dog while petting for lumps and sensitive areas as he ages.

Is A Life Jacket Really Necessary For Dogs?

There's no better way to beat the summer heat than a romp in the water to cool down. Whether its a trip to the beach, a lakeside treat or just a dip in the pool, both humans and their canine companions can enjoy strenuous exercise without over heating. But pet owners should be mindful of the dangers involved in swimming and boating for their four legged friends. Every year over 4000 dogs drown in swimming pools alone. Even the strongest swimmer can become incapacitated in a boating or skiing accident.

Canine Life Preservers can aid dogs several ways. The buoyancy of a good life jacket can minimize fatigue on extended play sessions, allowing you and your dog to enjoy water activities longer. Brightly colored life vests improve the visibility of your dog for boaters, jetskiers and those being towed behind water vehicles. In the case of extreme fatigue, strong currents or a blow to the head, a well made life vest and keep your pet afloat and strong handles can aid you in rescuing him from the water.

We took a careful look at a variety of the life jackets for dogs that are currently available on the market and compiled a list of the best life vests to make sure every day stays fun in the sun.

Best Value: Outward Hound Life Jacket

Kyjen, the maker of Outward Hound, is the leader in outdoor and travel gear for dogs. This sturdy life vest is lightweight and comes in a variety of colors and patterns. We found it had the best price point across the board as it is carried by a large number of online and brick and mortar retailers. The Outward hound life jackets series boasts: High visibility colors, multiple reflective strips, easy-grab handles, quick release buckles, and outstanding flotation. The unique, multi-handle design is constructed to add strength and durability for pulling dogs out of the water. The handles are a one piece sewn strap that wraps around the belly and back of the dog adding strength to the handle.

Special Features:

Convenient top grab handles allow easy rescue by hand or boat hook
Reflective accents and bright colors for high visibility
Fully adjustable chest and neck flaps plus quick release buckles
Durable and comfortable neoprene belly-band
Front float helps keep dog's head above water
Medium, Large and X-Large life jackets feature dual handles for easy lifting and stability

Positives: Affordable, Light Weight, Easy to Fit, Comfortable on the dog, Durable on land and water

Negatives: Stitching could be stronger in seams. Frequent lifting of medium and larger sized dogs can put excessive strain on the seams.

Best New Product: Henry & Clemmie's

Henry and Clemmie's are relative new comers in the outdoor dog apparel market. Their products have nice styling including a sleek logo badge on the shoulder of the product. Made with heavy nylon over the yoke, these guys are built to last. Look for sales at specialty stores introducing this new product at rates competitive with those of the Outward Hound Life Jacket.

Features:

Leash ring for quick and easy hook up

Handle for easy reach and rescue

Durable water resistant materials

Extra bright reflective piping for added safety and visibility

Adjustable buckle and velcro-style fastners for a snug and comfortable fit

Superior flotation padding for head and torso support

Positives: Sturdy nylon in canvas weight material across yoke, Runs true to size, Comfortable

Negatives: Only the red model is a vibrant color for improved visibility. The blue and pink don't stand out in the water.

Best Looking Life Jacket: K-9 Float Coat

This jacket provides all of the safety your dog needs in the water in one sleek, high fashion package. Boasting an innovative flotation core made of several layers of closed-cell foam., the K-9 Float Coat, made by RUFFWEAR, packs a hefty price tag as well. It runs nearly twice the price of the Outward Hound and Henry and Clemmie's models, but who cares when it comes to your canine diva. The k-9 Float Coat comes in 2 colors, Red Currant pictured here and a vibrant Dandelion Yellow.

Features:

Flotation is achieved via several layers of closed-cell foam - instead of one thick one. This allows a sculpted shape that enhances comfort, won't impede movement, and supports horizontal canine swimming.
Belly panel foam boosts underside flotation. For optimal safety and fit, the fully-connected, telescoping collar ensures the jacket stays in place even after long sessions of dock jumping or frolicking in the surf.
Buckles are protected and straps have tail keepers: everything is streamlined so there's less to dangle or snag.

Positives: Comfortable, great for Dock Diving, No loose straps to snag in the environment.

Negatives: Hefty price tag for the occasional swimming outing, good value for swimming hole regulars and dock diving competitors.

Highest In Customer Satisfaction - EZYDOG

Considered the Cadillac of canine outdoor equipment products,EZY DOG is the leader in agility harnesses and has a loyal following among it's customer base. Customer product reviews consistently give this life vest 5 star ratings, and its price is not too bad either at 50% more than the best value life vests. These life jackets come in 4 colors: Yellow, Red, Camo Green and Camo Pink.

Features:

50% more flotation material
Adjustable neoprene straps form an ergonomic, secure fit
Reflective detailing provides better nighttime safety
Durable construction keeps up with your dog
The ergonomic grab handle makes it easy to handle your dog

Positives: Sturdy, Well Made, Attractive Design

Negatives: Does not come in an XXSmall Size

Samoyeds - Dogs of the Spitz Family

Looking for a fluffy dog? Then look no further; the double coated dog breeds are your ticket to puff and fluff in all shapes, sizes and temperaments. The double coat is represented in every dog group from working and herding to toy, hounds, sporting and non-sporting dogs, and they have some major fur-factor going on. For example, looking for a white fluffy dog – choose from the small West Highland White Terrier, Bichon Frise or American Eskimo Dog. Needing a big fluffy white dog; try the Samoyed or the Great Pyrenees just to name a few of your options.

Double coats are comprised of long, guard hairs that define the dog’s appearance and which are supported by short, dense woolly hairs (the undercoat) below the surface of the guard hairs. The denser the undercoat, the fluffier the dog appears. The protective guard hairs of the coat are designed to repel moisture and shed dirt. This coat acts to insulate the dog from summer heat, winter cold as well as rain and wind. Double coated dogs should never be shaved; their coats act as a protective barrier from summer heat and scorching sun rays.

The Spitz variety of dogs provides the fluffiest coat of the double coated dogs. Many breeds in the working, herding and toy breeds fall into the Spitz category and even more can trace their breeds lineage back to Spitz ancestors. They were bred to live outdoors year round in Arctic climates and many breeds were originally developed to pull sleds. Spitz-type dog breeds with double coats include the German Spitz, the Finnish Spitz, The Finnish Lapphund, the Akita, the Alaskan Husky, the Alaskan Malamute, the rare Chinook, the Chow Chow, the Finnish and Swedish Lapphund, the gentle and clever Icelandic Sheep Dog, the Keeshond, the Korean Jindo, the Norwegian Elkhound, the Norwegian Lundehund, the Shiba Inu, the Siberian Husky, the Samoyed, the American Eskimo and the tiny Pomeranian from the toy group.

Shetland Sheepdog

Much of the Herding Group is double coated with varying lengths and thickness of coat. The double-coated herding dog breeds recognized by the AKC include the Australian Cattle Dog, the Australian Shepherd, both the rough and smooth collie, the Bearded Collie, the Belgian Sheepdog, the Beauceron, the Belgian Malinois, the Belgian Tervuren, the Briard, both rough and smooth coat Border Collies, the Bouvier des Flanders, the Canaan Dog, both the Pembroke and Cardigan Welsh Corgi, the German shepherd, the Norwegian Buhund, the Old English sheepdog, the Polish Lowland Sheep Dog, the Puli, the Shetland Sheepdog and the Swedish Vallhund. The fluffiest dog breeds in the herding group from smallest to largest are the Sheltie, the brilliant Border Collie (my personal favorite), the Aussie, the Rough Collie and the Old English Sheep Dog.

Great Pyrenees

Looking for some fluffy protection? These Puff Daddies are the biggest fluffy dogs on the block; you’ll find them in the Working Group: the Bernese Mountain Dog, the Black Russian Terrier, the rare Entlebucher Mountain Dog, , the Great Pyrenees, the Komondor, the Kuvasz, the Leonberger, the Newfoundland, the Saint Bernard and Tibetan mastiff.

Seeking a water loving dog with some extra puff to his coat? Check out these double coated dogs from the Sporting Group: the American Water Spaniel, the Boykin Spaniel, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever, the Golden Retriever, the Labrador Retriever (not so puffy, but still double coated), the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever and the Wirehaired Pointing Griffon. The Hound group weighs in with the elegant double coated Plot and the uniquely web-footed Otterhound.

West Highland White Terrier

If you’re in need of a dog with some puff and a whole lot of attitude the terrier group should supply plenty of both. Terrier breeds with double coats include the Australian Terrier, the Cairn Terrier, Dandie Dinmont Terrier, the Tibetan terrier, the Norfolk terrier, some Parson Russell Terriers, the Irish Terrier, the Lakeland Terrier, the Rat Terrier, the Scottish Terrier, the Sealyham Terrier, the Miniature Schnauzer, the Skye Terrier, the Wheaten Terrier, Wirehaired Fox Terrier and the West Highland White Terrier.

The Toy Group offers a nice variety of fluffy and silky double coated lap dogs: the Havanese, the Shih Tzu, Tibetan Spaniel and the tiny but wildly popular Yorkshire terrier. Looking for small and white? The Non-sporting Group offers the Bichon Frise.

Bichon Frise Puppy

To learn more about these breeds and their temperaments, visit the AKC’s website at www.AKC.org. Whichever double coated dog you select, keep in mind that their coats have some special grooming concerns. Generally the under coat will “blow” twice a year. Maintenance of the coat during this seasonal shed is essential to keeping your dog mat free and your home hair free.

Dogs tend to find unpleasant things in the yard, and it seems the more nasty it is to us, the more delicious it is to them, frequently resulting in an upset stomach or diarrhea. Once he has settled down and not displayed any stomach upset for five or six hours, you will want to try to give him some bland food that is high in moisture content. Both rice and oatmeal will fit the bill, but are not very appetizing to dogs.

Rice or Oatmeal and Canned Pumpkin:

Begin by boiling a pot of rice. Cook extra for the next mealtime or two, as rice keeps well covered on the stovetop. Oatmeal typically hardens after it has been sitting a while, so if you are using oatmeal, only make enough for that meal. Don’t use the microwave rice packets like Uncle Bens. The rice in these has been coated with a thin film of oil to prevent sticking, which may start your dog’s problem all over again.

Serve up half of the portion of rice or oatmeal that your dog would normally eat in kibble or canned food. If he usually eats 2 cups per meal, you will want to start with one cup of rice for the first meal. To make it more appetizing, add in 1-2 tablespoons of canned pumpkin per cup of rice or oatmeal and mix it through the cooked cereal. Canned pumpkin is highly nutritious, high in fiber and contains a property that helps to stop diarrhea.

If you don’t have canned pumpkin on hand, or the pumpkin mixture is not doing it for your dog, you can add in a chopped hardboiled egg and stir that into the rice mixture.

If your dog has no interest in eating for over 12 hours or eating causes the symptoms to return, you will want to consult your veterinarian immediately as this may indicate a serious condition.

If the first meal is tolerated well, you can increase the portion on the next meal to his normal portion size. If your dog has had diarrhea, you may add a spoonful of plain low-fat yogurt to help re-balance the bacteria in his intestines. Dogs can have Pepto Bismal to help sooth a stomach after vomiting or diarrhea. I keep the tablet form as the pink peppermint liquid is not usually appetizing to dogs.

Warning Signs of Dehydration

If your dog has had an upset stomach and has not been able to hold down water, you will want to test him for dehydration. There are 2 tests you can easily perform.

First Dehydration Test: Pull back his upper lip and touch his gums. If they are sticky or tacky to the touch, your dog may be dehydrated. Next press on the gums and see how long it takes for the color to return to that spot. It should return within 2 seconds. Delay in capillary refill time is an indication of dehydration.

Second Dehydration Test: Gentle pull the skin on the back of your dogs neck and see if it quickly returns to its normal position or if it “tents” instead. The longer the skin stays raised from the body of the dog, the more sever the dehydration.

Other signs of dehydration include sunken eyes, lethargy and too much or too little urination. Dehydration also includes loss of sodium, electrolytes, chloride and potassium. If you suspect your dog is dehydrated, it is important to seek veterinary assistance immediately as it causes organ failure when left untreated. Your vet can quickly and inexpensively re-hydrate your pet with subcutaneous fluid.

A dog’s diet should consist of 20 percent vegetables consumed on a daily basis. With these 3 easy home cooked recipes you can add that much needed vitamin and mineral fix to your dog’s diet with a minimum of effort. Better yet, these dog treats store in the freezer from 2-4 months. So with a little bit of effort, you can serve Fido healthy snacks for months to come as easy as 1-2-3!

1 - Fast, Simple and Healthy Dog Apple Crisp Treats

These dog treats are simple to make (you’ll be done in 45 minutes start to finish) and are super nutritious. Smear them with a little peanut butter for an extra tasty treat!

Ingredients:

2 apples pealed, cored and sliced into 3/8” slices
2 Tablespoons Lemon juice
1 cup water
1 tsp cinnamon

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 350° F

2. Combine the lemon juice and water in a small bowl.

3. Place apple slices in the lemon bath for 4 minutes turn, for 4 more minutes

4. Place the apple slices on a baking sheet lined with wax paper

5. Dust your apple slices with the cinnamon

6. Bake for at 350 degrees for 20-25 minutes until slightly browned.

7. Turn off the oven and let them continue cooking for another 10 minutes.

8. Cool on a wire rack.

9. Store in refrigerator for 1 week or in freezer for 2 months ( treats will still have a chewy texture from the remaining moisture in them).

2 - Chewy, Healthy Sweet Potato Jerky.

Sweet potatoes are high in calcium, folate, potassium and beta-carotene (beta-carotene is an antioxidant which converts to Vitamin A in the body). Low on the glycemic index, they make a great treat for senior pets.

Instructions:

Preheat oven to 250 degrees
Take one sweet potato or yam, wash and peal.
Slice into half inch slices
Place sweet potato slices on a baking sheet lined with wax paper
Bake in oven for 3.25 hours
Remove from oven and allow to completely cool.
Store in Fridge for 2 weeks or freezer for 4 months

3 - Delicious Oatmeal Dog Treats

Easy to make and they last in the freezer for up to 4 months. Oatmeal helps support the intestinal tract as it removes toxins from the intestines and the fiber helps regulate dogs. Collards and other green offer much needed essential nutrients including calcium, fiber, iron, magnesium, phosphate and omega fatty acids. Oh and the parley freshens breath!

Ingredients:

3 Cups Oatmeal, uncooked
1 2/3 Cups Wheat flour or Rice flour for Gluten-free recipe
1 1/2 Cup cold water
¼ cup chopped frozen Collards ( or Turnip Greens)
1 Tablespoon parsley, chopped
2 Egg yolks
1 Teaspoon baking soda

Instructions:

Thaw the collard greens, then mix all ingredients together in a mixing bowl until well combined.
Spoon 1-2 tablespoon scoops onto a greased cookie sheet.
Bake 15 minutes at 350 degrees.
Place on a cooling rack.
Store in refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or the freezer for 4 months.

Courtesy of Public Domain Images

Hemangiosarcoma is a form of cancer found almost exclusively in dogs. A relatively common canine cancer (6-8% of all canine cancers) it is estimated that 2 million of 73 million dogs currently alive in the United States will develop the disease and die from it. At this time, it is considered incurable, as it remains symptomless until the advanced stages of the disease. The current standard of care, surgery and chemotherapy, have proven to extend the life to the affected dog a mere median of 180 days with surgery alone, and an additionally 180 days with chemotherapy added to surgical intervention. In the wake of these poor treatment outcomes, research has focused on earlydetection of the disease as well as a very promising alternative medicine approach.

Hemangiosarcoma

Hemangiosarcoma is an indolent cancer, meaning it initially develops very slowly, asymptomatically and painlessly. The most common primary sites of the disease are the spleen, right atrium of the heart and the tissue beneath the skin. In the later stages of the disease, the cancer aggressively metastasizes to the lungs, liver and intestines. While dogs of any age and breed may be susceptible to hemangiosarcoma, it occurs more commonly in dogs beyond middle age, and has a higher incidence in breeds such as German Shepherd Dogs, Golden Retrievers, Portuguese Water Dogs and Skye Terriers, suggesting a genetic component is involved.

The Canine Genome

The completion of the Canine Genome Project has spurred research into the genetic components of a wide variety of physical ailments believed to have heritable factors. Researchers at Modiano Lab at the University of Minnesota have taken an interest in the genetic components contributing to hemangiosarcoma. Three of the more promising approaches involve mapping the risk alleles associated with the disease, determining the genetic, breed-specific abnormalities of the tumors themselves and developing a blood test for early detection of cancer cells via flow cytology.

The first project, developed in collaboration with Dr. Matthew Breen, focused on the possibility of breed specific abnormalities that may be detectable in tumors arising in dogs of different breeds. The initial results were promising; the data showed that tumors from dogs of one specific breed are functionally and genetically more similar to each other than they are to tumors from dogs of other breeds. This information demonstrates that heritable risk factors contribute to the development of canine cancer. More importantly, these results are the first step toward developing prevention and treatment strategies that address the specific causes underlying the biology of canine hemangiosarcoma.

The second project of great promise, developed in collaboration with the National Human Genome Research Institute of the National Institutes of Health and the Broad Institute of MIT and Harvard, has begun the process of mapping the risk alleles for the development of both Lymphoma and Hemangiosarcoma in the following target breeds:

Australian Shepherd

Bernese Mountain Dog

Border Collie

Boxer

Briard

Bullmastiff

Cocker Spaniel

Flat-coated Retriever

German Shepherd Dog

Golden Retriever

Greyhound

Irish Setter

Keeshond

Labrador Retriever

Mastiff

Poodle

Portuguese Water Dog

Rottweiler

Vizsla

Saluki

Researchers are currently seeking samples for this research in the form of blood samples and tumor samples with associated pedigree information. Samples from mixed breeds and other breeds are welcome from both healthy (aged) dogs and affected dogs. To learn more about how to contribute to the project visit http://www.modianolab.org/studyInfo/studyInfo_index.shtml.

Early Detection: Flow Cytometry

Once we have a genetic test that can forewarn us of a genetic predisposition to developing specific cancers, we will want to be able to detect the disease at an early stage of its development, well before it becomes symptomatic.

As cancer tumors grow, they shed cells into the blood stream. However, the tumor cells are shed so infrequently that they cannot be detected in routine blood tests. Enter the technology called flow cytometry. Here cells are “tagged” with fluorescent molecules that identify their lineage of origin, they are then run through an instrument (the flow cytometer) that combines optics and fluidics information through a software capable of analyzing hundreds of thousands of cells in a matter of minutes. Researchers have employed this technology and have successfully shown proof of principle for this test. Idexx Laboratories has licensed the technology from the University of Colorado, although the ultimate affordability of employing this technology in local veterinary practices tests remains to be seen. Another issue with this technology, is that it does not tell us where the site of origin of the tumor is. Early treatment will therefore need to be able to treat the disease independent of the site of origin.

Penn State’s Magic Mushrooms

In a Penn State study funded by Chinese Medicine Holding LTD. and released in September 2012, dogs with hemangiosarcoma were treated with a compound derived from the Coriolus versicolor mushroom, resulting in the longest survival times ever reported for dogs with the disease.

The Coriolus versicolor mushroom, known commonly as the Yunzhi mushroom, has been used in traditional Chinese medicine for over 2,000 years. A compound within the mushroom, polysaccharopeptide, or PSP, is believed to have immune-boosting properties. Over the past two decades, studies have indicated that PSP may also have a tumor-fighting effect.

Penn State researchers mounted a study of dogs with naturally occurring hemangiosarcoma to see what effects, the Yunzhi mushroom would have on their patients. Fifteen dogs that had been diagnosed with hemangiosarcoma participated in the trial. Divided into three groups of five, each group received a different dose — 25, 50 or 100 mg/kg/day — of I’m-Yunity, a formulation of PSP which is also readily available over the Internet. The dog owners were instructed to give their dog a capsule of I’m-Yunity, daily. The owners brought their dogs to Penn’s Ryan Veterinary Hospital for follow-up visits on a monthly basis for blood sample testings and ultrasounds to determine the extent that tumors had developed or spread in the dogs’ bodies.

“We were shocked,” Cimino Brown said of Penn State. “Prior to this, the longest reported median survival time of dogs with hemangiosarcoma of the spleen that underwent no further treatment was 86 days. We had dogs that lived beyond a year with nothing other than this mushroom as treatment.”

Not only had the dog’s survival times increased with the use of PSP, but unlike chemotherapy, there were no reported side effects. Dogs receiving the highest dosage, 100 mg/day, had the longest median survival time, however the difference in survival times between dosages was not statistically significant.

While not inexpensive, this treatment is certainly more affordable than chemotherapy. Those on tight budgets, may consider using this supplement at the lower dosage without fear of significantly impacting survival rates. However, it should be noted that while the PSP, I’m Yunity, extends life and improves quality of life, it has not been shown to be a cure for hemangiosarcoma.

The Penn State researchers are preparing to pursue further trials of I’m-Yunity in dogs with hemangiosarcoma to confirm and refine their results. One upcoming trial will compare I’m-Yunity to a placebo for those owners who choose not to pursue chemotherapy for their pet; the other will compare the compound with the current standard-of-care, chemotherapy.

For information on Canine Osteosarcoma please click here.

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Images of frightened, discarded cats and dogs in shelters tug at our hearts and serve to encourage the public to embrace the spaying and neutering of pets as a way to effectively reduce the unwanted pet population. As the burgeoning population of abandoned cats and dogs has increased in tough economic times, a growing trend in the animal welfare and rescue community has been to spay and neuter cats and dogs prior to releasing their charges to their new adoptive families. In the case of young kittens and puppies, some of the more zealous of these organizations have begun spaying and neutering puppies as early as 6 -8 weeks of age.

While research regarding the long term benefits and risks that such early intervention may have on the physical development of the adult dog is many years away, we can look to existing research on the effects on the health of dogs spayed or neutered prior to one year of age in order to determine the advisability of altering puppies and at what age spay or neuter is appropriate.

In 2007, Laura J. Sanborn, M.S. published a study, “Long-Term Health Risks and Benefits Associated with Spay / Neuter in Dogs.” This study reviewed much of the existing veterinary medical literature, over 50 peer-reviewed articles, in an attempt to access the health impacts of spaying and neutering dogs, and to aid veterinary care providers and pet owners in making more informed decisions regarding the advisability of spay / neuter as well as appropriate timing in the dog’s development for surgery.

The Health Benefits and Risks of Neutered Male Dogs

Veterinarians regularly tout the health benefits associated with neutering male puppies. Reduction of prostate cancer is frequently cited as a benefit, and prevention of testicular cancer is also cited as an important consideration in the long term health of the dog. While neutering will eliminate the risk of dying from testicular cancer, the risk of developing this cancer and dying from it, for an intact dog, is less than one percent. And while prostate cancer in humans is linked to testosterone, studies show that in canines it appears to have an opposite effect on them than it does on humans.

Benefits of neutering found in a review of the medical studies included moderate reduction in the likelihood of males developing:

perianal fistulas
non-cancerous prostate disorders
and possibly a reduction in the risk of developing diabetes

While the benefits associated with neutering males in this study appear minimal, the increased risk of developing several cancers, obesity, orthopedic disorders and adverse reactions to vaccinations is substantial.

Neutered Male Dogs vs. Intact Males:

Neutered males are 1.6 times more likely to develop CardiacHemangiosarcoma than their intact counter parts.
Are twice as likely to develop Urinary Tract Cancer than intact males
Are Four times more likely to develop Prostate Cancer than intact males.
Experience a 27% increase in adverse reactions to vaccinations over their intact counterparts.
And if neutering is done prior to 1 year of age, it substantially increases the risk of the more common cancer Osteosarcoma (bone cancer).

Additionally, neutered dogs are 4 times more likely to be obese than their intact counterparts, in fact neutering triples the risks of hypothyroidism, which causes weight gain, lethargy and hair loss. Perhaps due to being overweight, neutered dogs experience a higher risk of developing orthopedic disorders and are at greater risk for progressive geriatric cognitive impairment.

Weighing the benefits against the increased health risks associated with neutering male dogs, it appears from this study that the risks far outweigh the benefits, with one major exception. Unilateral and bilateral cryptorchism, or undescended testicles, results in a 13 times greater chance of developing testicular cancer. While prognosis for treatment of testicular cancer is good, a 90% cure rate, it is advisable to neuter these dogs.

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Marking Indoors

Many owners wish to eliminate the tendency of male dogs to mark territory, by neutering males before they reach sexual maturity. In fact males neutered around 6 months of age frequently never learn to “hike” their legs, and eliminate in the same manner as puppies and female dogs do. However, with proper training, males will learn not to mark or hike their legs indoors. It is only when males are exposed to intact females and their estrus cycle, that the male marking behavior becomes a challenge inside the home.

Aggression

Another reason cited for neutering males is to reduce or eliminate aggressive behavior. Intact dogs are not welcome at dog parks and for good reason. A pair of intact males presented with an intact female in estrus will likely result in a display of aggression between the males. Dominant males will want to assert themselves, and the cost your dog's health and your wallet may not be worth the risk. If you are keeping an intact male dog, respect the rules of dog parks and most municipal and county laws; keep your dog on leash or confined at all times.

Total Lifespan Intact vs. Neutered Males

In a recent study at University of Georgia, researchers examined records of over 40,000 dogs to determine whether intact males or neutered males live longer. While they found that neutered males tend to die of certain cancers at a higher rate than their intact counterparts, overall the neutered dogs had on average a longer lifespan. The study showed that intact males and females tended to die more frequently of infectious disease at an earlier age than the spayed and neutered dogs in the study. It should be noted that the dogs in this study were from teaching hospitals, and the results might be different in private veterinary practices. It is not known whether the intact males and females were pets or strays and what level of care they had received prior to admission.

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Should We Neuter Our Dog?

If you have a breed that is predisposed to developing certain cancers such as osteosarcoma, lymphoma or hemangiosarcomo, and you have a well fenced yard, you may want to leave your male intact. The research clearly shows that the earlier that you spay or neuter your pet, they greater the risk is of developing one of the aforementioned cancers. However, research also suggests that neutered males live longer than intact males. If you opt for neutering, we suggest that you wait until your dog’s first birthday to alter him. While many vets advocate neutering at 6 months, it appears that hormones from the reproductive system are aiding in the development of the dog’s autoimmune system. Allowing him to reach sexual maturity will give him the advantage that these hormones provide and hopefully extend his lifespan as well as the quality of his final years.

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